Installing bathtub with tile flange

The tile overlaps the flange , directing water that runs down the wall into the tub : If your tub does not have a tub flange , you can sometimes by an add-on flange kit: Like 1. How do you install a bathtub flange?

What does integral flange mean? What is a four tile flange bath? Four Tile Flange Baths. How do you undermount a bathtub? How to Install an Undermount Tub. Shut-off the hot and cold water valves. What are drop in tubs? How do you build a drop in tub platform? What is a tile bead kit? How do you secure a bathtub to the wall? Should cement board go under tub? Does cement board go over tub flange? Do you need to tape cement board before tiling?

Do you need a vapor barrier behind cement board? Can I use deck screws for cement board? Can you tile over a bathtub surround? Do you put drywall behind the tub? I have read your information on sealing the gap between the top of the tub flange and bottom of wall board. I have questioned all the manufacturers whose products I have used to complete my tub-to-shower conversion, and all seem to either offer no solutions or are non-committal about their products.

I ask my second question to you…. Both give me inconclusive info about products that will BOND to their products. I have many concerns. Please comment and all help will be appreciated. Shower pan installed 2. Redgard over hardibacker 4. Tile installed with modified thinset mortar 6. I just wanted to make sure that all the different components were bonded together properly.

Hi, good morning. Love your videos. Lots of very good info. Quick question, and I will try to keep it as short as possible….. I do the opposite of everyone else. Anyway the existing was only four years old, so I figured, at the laugh of my contractor buddies, and I do know better, that I could save the bathroom and carefully add the tub. So far, so good. I was able to remove the existing wall tiles and save them. They are spot applied with thin set nice globs to DensShield.

I think the walls benefit from the added air space between the porcelain tiles and the DensShield because of the spot bonding with the thin set.

Anyway, long story short ….. I will then be laying ……. I assume that will deaden the floor noise considerably tub on second floor then the tub on that.

So, the aluminum tile flange on the tub which they did not tell me was an applied one when I ordered it will end up just below the edge of the DensShield.

Now my question … and I know you have video options for this ….. Here is my plan, feel free to laugh …. Thin set and tile …. I spared you the other one hundred steps like having to change the mixer set, insulate, etc. I think it sounds OK. So many ways do things.

Sorry if basically same questions asked by others. Space adjustment issues result from need furr out wall aprox 1. Original plan was to furr out so that the foamboard notched or lays over the flange edge.

Just seemed like bit more waterproof if front plane in front of the flange.. My particular tub instructions state to screw through flanges to studs specified intervals. If the foam board is notched to any degree to go over the tub flange is there a minimum thickness that should be in front of the flange? Guess, another question…is there a way to nicely transition without looking to hokey to use a technical term if say the tub area is furred out but the remaining wall is not?

My curved tub with apron has the same thick flange down front edges so same issue applies sealing that area. Not sure if logic same as practice but having waterproofing in front of potential leak better than behind? Is sealant plus membrane or mesh as strong seal as overlap of the board?

No matter what, the backer board and waterproofing need to hang over the inside of the tub flange so that water will fall inside the tub rather than behind it. Personally, I like the idea of just sliding the tub all the way to one side and building a corner that is 1.

If you can split a bunch of differences and make it so that water is managed properly then that will work too.

I just think the amount of space is a bit too much to overcome. Thanks so much. I agree with waterproof layer to run inside tub not behind! Sorry additional question s help resolve in my mind. Is that type joint as strong as the board complete overhang or notched to overhang blocking behind that area in any case.. Maybe, answering own question but analyzing worst case potential risks of methods. Is this sound reasoning? Ok so hopefully final question.

What is minimum board lip overhang flange to provide adequate strength if notch the board? Asking as have similar situation in other bath shower space fortunately no complicating issues there. Fun times! How flush the board is with the tub flange is more of a matter of circumstance than anything.

You are correct that one side of the tub is flush in my GoBoard video. However, on the other two sides, it hangs over significantly.

With method 3 or even method 2 , how do you deal with screws going through the flange on acrylic tubs? Do you stop the mesh tape or banding above the screws? Or somehow adhere it right over the screws? If they do, then something has to be done about them. Sometimes care has to be taken to make sure the sealant seals completely around the head.

Do you have any advice on how I could handle this? Wish I just put in a freestanding tub. I almost think an expanding foam might work best? As long as the tile on the floor ends up covering the gap. Might be a little tricky keeping the foam out of the waffles unless you prefill the Ditra and tape everything off. I want to put something in that gap that will support the Ditra but not cause excessive movement so the seal between ditra and the tub breaks down. The foam sounds like a good solution but would it bulge up if the plywood moved?

What kind of foam would you use? So it looks like I misunderstood the situation a little bit. But the sill seal and floor patch, like Planipatch, would be the way to do it, I would think. Then you can cut the sill seal off with a razor knife after everything has dried. They are two different products. Sort of a mild banana shape.

Sorry for all the questions Tile Guy but this is my first tile job and I want to get it right. Am I on the right track or would you recommend something else? Sounds good to me! If you are wondering then others probably are too. My tiles will be finished at top, sides and bottom with Schluter tile edge Schiene basic. I planned on putting a bead of caulk silicone? But it seems the main concern is waterproofing not separation of the two elements??? Do I not have to be concerned with keeping the tiled backer board separate from the bathtub?

Could you just outline the basic principles for me? Thanks so much for all your comments and advice. The reason for flexible sealant vs a mortar is that the sealant allows for the movement.

Thanks so much for your speedy reply. I have tile backer board on the three walls but I was not planning on putting Kerdi Membrane overall. So, working from back to front the order would be tub flange shimmed level with backer board by strip of Ditra underlayment, mesh tape joining strip of underlayment to backer board, thinset, Kerdiband, more thinset, leg of Shiene tile edging, thinset, and finally tiles. I plan to run a bead of caulk silicone? Thank you, once again, for your invaluable help.

Much appreciated! Hopefully, you are planning on putting some sort of waterproofing membrane over your cement board walls otherwise, it sounds like an OK plan.

Good luck! No mesh tape or kerdi-band. However, I am warming up to banding, like Kerdi-band, being used for that as my preferred method. But I think it provides a better and wider bonding surface. We have our bathroom redone about 6 months ago. I have no worries about the area covered by the panels but I worry about the gap between the panels and the tub. The contractor with 30 years of experience thinks the L-shape tub lip and the slightly slanted design will keep the water from going behind the quartz panels.

I am not certain if they have done anything to prevent water from sipping through the connection and reach the water-proof mold resistant drywall. It seems to me the only thing he did was silicon caulking on the outside. Now 6 months after, I accidentally found out the other side wall blocked by some furniture have a few spots 1-inch to 4-inch diameter bulging out and they are around the same level of the tub lip.

The rest of the drywall did feel slightly wet to touch. So, we suspect a slow leakage that has worked its way through the studs to the other side and reached the drywall. I then found our caulking between the quartz panel and the tub has a slight gap.

After a shower, I dried the area completely, I stuck a paper towel next to the gap and water oozed out right away and soaked up the whole paper towel. Do you have any advice on what to do to plug the gap between the very small gap before reapplying new caulking? It sounds to me like your shower was built incorrectly and the best thing to do would be to have the contractor redo it before more time passes.

In general, you never want to rely on tile or quartz panels, in this case and silicone for your waterproofing. There should always be a primary waterproofing system behind the finished product. I had the tub installed but the guys never put the screws in the tub that I noticed you had in your pictures. For the gaps in between the durock, I pretty much butted mine up to one another.

Lastly, I brought the durock over the flange on 2 sides and put silicone underneath. On side 3, because of the wall set up, I had to bring the durock above the flange and then silicones. Is this ok to have the two sides different? Also, I have not red-guarded yet and already put silicone in some gaps.

But you might have some issues with it sticking where the Redgard meets the silicone. Fiberglass is usually drilled through and screwed.

You can always look your exact tub up and see how they want it installed. Thank you for sharing your expertise. I am new to tiling and see there is much concern over the cementboard-shower flange interface.

My question is this. What do you think? Thank you again for your generosity in time and expertise. It is very much appreciated. Hi Everyone! I am a homeowner who hired a guy to install a tile surround around my tub. It looks ok…. Is there any good way to seal this, short of tearing off all the tile? He became very defensive when I pointed this problem out to him. Cement board is heavy enough and breathable enough to take the moisture without a problem.

By having the vapor barrier behind the cement board you stop the moisture going further into the wall. There are screws made for concrete board. Bugle head like drywall screws but they are coated to resist corrosion and have sufficient strength to support the board. The heads are larger than deck screws or drywall screws , too. Rona, HD, HH will all have them. While you might think that regular thinset mortar or adhesive can be used, only epoxy will bond tile to plastic and metal surfaces, but, generally, a tub surround isn't an acceptable surface.

Fiberglass and acrylic tub and shower enclosures come with a flanged edge that attaches directly to the wall studs, and the proper way to hide this flange is to install drywall over it. Consequently, enclosures are typically installed on the bare studs. Most concrete backer - boards on the market today are not water-resistant, but all are waterproof. Since many people confuse the terms, it is a common misconception that this is the best material for use inside a shower or tub area. Tiled Showers and Fiberglass Walls On the pans without panels, tile is often installed on the drywall as a waterproof barrier.

Whether you choose to install tile or the panel walls, drywall always goes on top of the shower pan , after the pan is set into the floor. What is a bathtub tile flange? Category: style and fashion bath and shower. The tile overlaps the flange , directing water that runs down the wall into the tub : If your tub does not have a tub flange , you can sometimes by an add-on flange kit: Like 1. How do you install a bathtub flange? What does integral flange mean? What is a four tile flange bath?

I've never used this system. These look like a fail waiting to happen. Available from schluter. I hate to give an answer that's not really an answer but I think you need to return that tub.

Without a flange there's no way to guarantee that water won't migrate over and around the edge of the tub into your wall where cavity where it will fester, unseen until you have a major problem.

If someone has a better, more can-do, solution I'll be the first in line to delete this answer but until then, sometimes you just have to cut your losses:. Construct a frame to support the tub. Use backer board to cover the the frame as you would a wall cubby.

Set tub on frame and use an edging trim to hold the backer board and something like what Supply house. Oatey makes an adhesive to insure there is no movement.

Save calking for other tile wall areas.